FYI

Why do the borders ripple?

This happens when borders are sewn on before cutting to length. The quilt top becomes stretched slightly and the ensuing borders are lengthened. To avoid this measure through the center of the quilt top and cut the border to that length. Pin the two ends, middle, and ease in the rest; sew. Measure through the center the other way to find the correct measurement for the other two sides. Pin and sew.

When the time comes to have it quilted the lengthened borders will have to be eased in, if possible (usually no more than 1” depending on the length), or a fold is made to compensate.

What kind of batting is best?

The kind that doesn’t fall apart! J I have found that Warm & Natural (packaged) is a very good batt. Any with scrim on it holds together well, too. The worst I’ve handled is Mountain Mist: cotton, fusible cotton and thin polyester. Both kinds tend to tear upon handling. Fairfield is one step up from Mountain Mist. Batting tends to be different in the quality dept as are fabrics and threads depending on where it is bought. I have 6oz Hobbs polyester as a client cloice. Hobbs Wool is also available.

How do I choose the appropriate quilting design?

What I do is look for inspiration from the quilt top. It could come from the block design, the printed fabric, or if it is already busy then a simple pattern would do. Sometimes, if the top is primarily linear then the quilting is somewhat curvy; and vice-versa. Also, is it for a man/boy (no florals) or woman/girl? Or, what is the theme? A fellow Ohio quiltmaker wanted herbal quilting on her wall-hanging (school house blocks in country colors). On a cool-car-print top flames were put in the border and wheels in some of the blocks.

Can I mark some of my own quilting designs?

Yes, you may. When I get it I will turn it into continuous line quilting if possible. You marking the top will also give me time to get more quilting done!

What kind of marking utensils are used?

I have a disappearing purple marker and a wash-out blue pen (which I test on the back side in a seam, first). What I really like to use is white chalk: stick and pounce. These wash out as well, or rubbed out.

How to finish the binding:

After the binding is sewn to the top take your rotary ruler and line up the width of your binding (1/4”, 3/8”, etc) on the stitched line on the front of the machine-d binding. Trim with the rotary cutter. Move the ruler (do only a little at a time as the edge curves) and trim some more. This will ensure a consistent width of the bound edge.  Turn the binding to the back and whip-stitch down to the backing by hand. Voila!